Mezcal
The gods of the
pre-Hispanic world
gave men and women of this
earth countless gifts;
among them was the agave,
every part of which
they learned to use.
That’s why the Spanish,
surprised by it’s
multiple uses,
called it tree of wonders
and named it maguey.
It was later called mezcal
from the Nahuatl word
mexcalli,
which means,
“heart of the maguey”.
In the modern-day
state of Oaxaca,
an alcoholic beverage
called mezcal
is made from the maguey
that grows there,
just like the agave from
Jalisco produces tequila.
Mescal is the final result
of distilling
the trunk—or “pina”
( pineapple )-
of the agave
mezcalero that
was first cooked in an
earthen oven
lined with stone.
That is why mescal has an
earthy, smoky flavor.
The drinking of mescal
has grown from it’s
ritualistic beginnings
to international markets
were it has won
worldwide popularity.
Mescal now has an
official Mexican
standard and appellation,
and is considered
another of
Mexico’s contributions
to the world.
Men and women drink mescal
in ceremonies
and social activities.
They drink to find courage
or swallow betrayal.
They toast health or sip
when they’re
feeling poorly.
Mescal is drunk
in sorrow and in joy,
in poverty
and in wealth.
That is why the old adage
explains all it’s
qualities and
contradictions:
for every misfortune
mescal;
for all good fortune
‘ pour me another’!
The legend of mescal
says that there was once
a very cold but
generous goddess
whose body
was like the trunk
of the agave
but instead of leaves,
she had 40,000 breasts.
From her breasts flowed
the elixir drunk by those
who venerated her;
she was Mayatl,
Zapotec goddess of mescal.
Cold and untouchable,
she first came in touch
with her feelings
when some worms
burrowed into her breasts
and were trapped forever.
She fell in love with a
brave warrior
but he did not
feel worthy
of her favors.
In desperation the goddess
offered him the most
beautiful and luxuriant
of her breasts for him
to drink the elixir
that poured
from her heart.
He drank and drank until
in a drunken
despair begged her to
“make me a god
or become a woman”-
Unfortunately for the
romantically inclined,
the legend ends here.
It is important
to point out that
pre-Hispanic mescal
was different
than that produced after
the arrival of
the Spaniards.
Distilling processes
were unknown
in pre-Columbian times.
Drunkenness was
penalized by death,
so alcoholic beverages
were very low grade
and drunk almost
exclusively for
religious ceremonies.
Alcohol was produced by
simple fermentation.
So mescal was simply
the fermented
juice or tepache
from the cooked
heart of the maguey.
The Spaniards
introduced stills and
started to produce
beverages with a
high alcohol content.
There is a long journey
between
planting the maguey
and a glass of mezcal.
It goes through
a series of steps
combining
ancient techniques
and modernized processes.
Maguey plants take
7 to 9 years
to mature.
Rows of agave plants
cover
the landscape of Oaxaca.
In general,
this is
a mountainous terrain,
making mechanized farming
nearly impossible.
Farmer’s hand cut
the mature
trunk or “pina”.
Then the maguey is baked
in a circular
earthen oven
lined with stone.
Then crushed so that
the juices may
be extracted by
grinding in an
old-fashioned mill
and grindstone.
Modern distillation
is mostly in
wooden tubs and
copper stills,
but very traditional
earthernware pots and
reed pipes are also used.
Types of Mezcal:
·Mescal with a worm,
in which a red
maguey worm
is added to the
bottling process.
·Mescal de pechuga
is distilled
with a chicken breast
·Tobala mezcal,
made from the heart
of the tobala maguey
that grows wild and
is only distilled
in earthernware pots.
·The purest form
of the liquor,
miner’s mescal,
the product of the
first distillation.
Paid, in the past,
as part of the
miner’s salary
to ease the pain of
the back-breaking labor.
·Others have names
of herbs,
flowers and fruit,
which were added during
the distillation process.
·Mescal liqueurs are also
manufactured with mescal,
sugar syrup,
honey and fruit.
Mezcal is a
handcrafted beverage,
a family and
community tradition.
Along with tequila
and pulque,
mezcal forms the nation
of Mexico’s trilogy
of drinks produced
from the maguey.
All three were regional
beverages whose
production
and consumption
were seriously
restricted for over
two hundred years.
Perhaps its
ritualistic use,
especially in the case
of mezcal,
created its popularity.
Mezcal is used to bless
the planting of crops,
new arrivals to the family,
a few drops are
even sprinkled
on the grave of loved ones
to send the soul
on its way.
On patron saints’ days
it is served according
to local hierarchy
and to refuse a cup is
tantamount to sacrilege.
It is most often
served straight
but can occasionally
be used in cocktails.
Mezcal is strong
and overdoing
will put one
in a state of
permanent stupor.
It is highly recommended
that one stop
before reaching this state.


Mezcal vs Tequila
Mezcal Drink Recipes
Beverage Index
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